Hike the Adirondacks’ Great Range Traverse in One Day
Summit of Haystack in the Adirondacks.
New Year resolutions never stuck for me, but for the past several years, goals I set on my birthday have. With every passing year, my individual goals differ, but the categories stay the same (hiking, traveling, fitness, and finances). 2023 was the year I took my hiking goals up a notch.
After wrapping up the New England 67 4,000 footers, I had the Adirondack 46 on my mind. When I first moved to Massachusetts, I hiked one of the 46 a year. I thought I’d keep that up to have a lifelong hiking goal. If I started hiking them once a year at twenty-five, I’d have a goal to pursue past retirement. I should have known better. I always considered the Adirondacks rugged. The trails aren’t as easy to navigate as the Whites, and the mileage increases tremendously with the 46. The Whites were challenging sure, but the times I spent in the Adirondacks I rarely came across other hikers, particularly on the grueling days.
I made my way up to 19 going into May, but I was still too scared to officially write down “become a 46er this year” on my list. So I didn’t. I kept it to myself and decided any free weekend off of summer school I had, I’d drive to my favorite place. And that’s exactly what I did. By the end of September 2023, I only had six remaining peaks. I couldn’t believe it. These six 4,000 footers happened to also all be along the Great Range, and like my NH 48 finish, I knew I wanted to end on an epic adventure.
That’s where the single-day Great Range Traverse came in. Roughly a twenty-mile hike with around 9,000 feet of elevation gain. I have had longer days and bigger climbs than this one, but the Adirondack terrain is truly on a different level. Particularly on this one with the famous Saddleback cliffs. I knew I wanted company not only for morale, but as a safety measure. Thankfully, there are others out there who love these mountains and who jump right in when it comes to these challenges instead of shy away. Tom joined me, despite already being a 46er, because he was working on his Northeast Ultras. Completing this hike would not only make me a 46er, but it would also complete another of the Northeast Ultras. The NEU is a list of nine intense hikes in the Northeast that range from 20-52 miles. Told you I wanted an epic adventure, right?
We agreed to start hiking by 3:30 am, so I started the drive from Western Massachusetts a little before midnight to arrive at the trailhead. After dropping one car off at the Rooster Comb trailhead, we made our way to the Adirondack Loj for our official start. Car parked at the start of the Van Hoevenberg Trail and bags packed. We were ready.
Van Hoevenberg Trail > Mt. Marcy (5,305’)
Darkness kept us company as we began our hike along the Van Hoevenberg trail. We made our way to Marcy Dam way faster than I imagined. We chugged along, and then our ascent to New York’s highest point truly began. And so did some stomach issues for me.
Slowly but surely, we made our way. Shockingly, we made it to the summit in time for sunrise. Sadly, spikes were required as winter welcomed us at 5,000 feet. It was a socked in summit, but the sun was visibly rising. It looked like a fireball in the sky. The only other time I experienced a moment like this was atop Sugarloaf in Maine for a New England 67 hike. I had the summit to myself as the sky burst into fiery flames.
Again I found myself at a summit, with Tom this time, that felt like we were on another planet. We took it in for a moment. My hands were frigid and the winds were whipping, so we headed back down. Once we were under tree line again, we took a longer break. Tom let me borrow his warm gloves and we headed to our next summit: Haystack.
Mt. Marcy via Van Hoevenberg Trail > Phelps Trail > Haystack (4,915’)
We descended over 1,000 ft before having to summit Little Haystack (4,662’) en route to Haystack. The last stretch along the Haystack Trail led us there. Haystack stands at 4,915’ and was a new summit for me. This one came with a sliver of an opening in the sky’s parting clouds. Some bits of foliage remained in the distance, and we could see Mt. Marcy was clearing up a bit as well.
The sky cleared up a bit for us atop Haystack.
Haystack > Basin (4,817’) >
Saddleback (4,511’)
Haystack was an out-and-back, like Marcy, so we went back down the Haystack Trail and back onto the State Range Trail. That was our last out-and-back on trail. I didn’t feel great because I wasn’t eating, but also mentally I knew the toughest part wasn’t over yet. I’m glad we hiked Marcy first and went the route we did because a large amount of climbing had already been accomplished, but the part I psyched myself out the most by was approaching: the Saddleback cliffs.
A small section of the Saddleback cliffs.
Saddleback > Gothics (4,675’) > Armstrong (4,331’)
The cliffs were no joke. I’m not tall, so it was very helpful to have Tom go first and I watched his hand and foot placements. Even with him in the lead, I was terrified. I watched a few videos of the cliffs and chatted with hikers around my height who went up the cliffs, but nothing really prepares you. Already hiking a few mountains prior to this moment probably didn’t help. I saw my life flash before my eyes a few times, but I did it. At the top, we sat and ate a bit. That was when I realized my hands were still shaking. I’m not someone with a fear of heights at all, so that was definitely alarming. As we took our break, other hikers approached us, telling us someone had fallen and they assisted them with a rope that hiker had packed. Safe to say I won’t be repeating this section for some time (re: ever).
I was just grateful the “tough” section was done. I told myself the cliffs were the worst part and it would be smooth sailing after that. The Adirondacks, of course, are never smooth sailing.
Next up was our approach to Gothics. I hiked this one years before, very early on in my 46er journey. I was a beginner hiker looking for great foliage views and I found them! I hoped to do Sawteeth at that time too, but hikers at Gothics’ summit told me they crossed paths with black ice, and I played it safe since I didn’t have spikes at the time.
Since I had already been up Gothics and wasn’t traumatized back then, I thought I was in the clear. Then came the cables. I focused so much energy and research on the Saddleback cliffs that I didn’t realize Gothics had its own exciting adventure. Physically I was already weak from the hours we had been on trail, so when I saw a straight incline where using cables was practically a requirement for a great stretch of trail, I realized I was in for quite the arm workout.
As we ascended, a couple hikers descended. I was just thankful to not have to descend this section. Another moment of gratitude for taking the route we did. It looked worse than it was and soon after we headed to Armstrong. I wish I could say more about Armstrong, but I have no memories of this point. I was just glad to be done with the challenging sections.
Armstrong > Upper Wolfjaws (4,203’) > Lower Wolfjaws (4,177’)
With Armstrong under our belts, we had a couple climbs left. At this point, we were chasing the sun. We ascended Upper Wolfjaws and went onwards to Lower Wolfjaws. Neither were too memorable until we found an opening on Lower Wolfjaws just after the sun set behind the mountains. Tom gifted me a 46er patch so I officially became a 46er then. What a moment.
Lower Wolfjaws > Hedgehog Mountain (3,376’) > Rooster Comb Trailhead
I finally felt relief that the day was over, despite us already watching the sun set on the day. It was defeating to realize about five miles of trail remained and we’d have to descend roughly 3,000 feet. My feet were wrecked. Mentally, I was exhausted. Tom took the lead on the descent. We headed down the W. A. White Trail toward Hedgehog Mountain, followed by the Hedgehog Trail, and lastly Rooster Comb Trail. Tom safely got us back to the Rooster Comb trailhead. Honestly couldn’t have gotten out of the woods without him.
I felt an amalgam of emotions as we drove back to my car. Delirium was the strongest feeling in that moment because I hadn’t eaten and I was absolutely exhausted.
Days later I realized what I achieved.
I had just finished the 46. I was officially a 46er – something I never saw myself achieving. People usually laugh when they find out I finished on Lower Wolfjaws (a rather unimpressive peak), but then I mention it was part of the Great Range Traverse that day. Not only did I accomplish the goal I set for myself, secretly years prior, but I also climbed another rung on the ladder toward being a Northeast Ultra 8 finisher. The Great Range Traverse was my second of the Northeast Ultras.
Overall, I’m glad I experienced the Great Range Traverse, but don’t think I’d want to rush these mountains in the future. Of course I wanted to complete them for the ultra, and I’m thrilled I did, but it was a long day. By the end, we hiked 20.8 miles with 8,300 feet of climbing. Our moving time was eleven hours, but our breaks totaled a handful of hours over the course of the day.
The magical Adirondack mountains.
With the Adirondack 46 complete, I also became a Northeast 111 finisher. Naturally, attempting the rest of the Northeast Ultras was up next.
Have you considered hiking the Great Range Traverse? Would you take on the challenge of completing it in one day?
