Kayak Camping is the Superior Way to Explore Michigan’s Isle Royale National Park
No roads. No cars. Little to no service. My kind of vacation.
Isle Royale is one of the few parks that require travelers to arrive by ferry or seaplane. Here’s how we spent five days in Isle Royale National Park with the Keweenaw Adventure Company:
Every summer I gear up to accomplish one of my yearly goals: visiting two new national parks. With my visit to Virgin Islands National Park in the spring, I set my sights on another remote island park in a state I had yet to visit: Michigan’s Isle Royale National Park.
Being on a remote island in the U.S. felt like a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Since my thru-hike in the most isolated corner of the Adirondacks, I have found myself gravitating to quieter, off-the-beaten path (quite literally in the case of Isle Royale) places.
No roads. No cars. Little to no service.
My kind of vacation.
Not only is Isle Royale Michigan’s only national park, but it is also one of the few parks that require travelers to arrive by ferry or seaplane. It’s also only open seasonally (closed from November to mid-April), and typically it is the least visited park in the lower 48.
As I get closer to visiting all 63 U.S. national parks, I try to find special ways to explore them. While it is technically possible to see Isle Royale National Park in a day, most visitors say they regret not spending days there. With possible ferry delays due to weather, though these are rare, you could end up only spending a couple hours in this incredible park by limiting your visit to a day trip. There’s something about how wild and vast Isle Royale is that draws you in for longer.
I stumbled on a new-to-me way to explore an island park: kayak camping with the Keweenaw Adventure Company. This company took care of everything—from ensuring my safety while navigating the waters of Lake Superior to providing gourmet meals in the backcountry.
Kayak camping is the superior way to visit Isle Royale National Park because the guides at Keweenaw Adventure Company tailor your trip to your interests. When asked what we wanted to do, our only requirements were seeing the Rock Harbor Lighthouse, getting a hike in, and spending as much time on the water as possible.
Our guide through the Keweenaw Adventure Company took us on an adventure in June 2023 that did just that. Here’s how we spent five days in Isle Royale National Park:
Kayaking along Lake Superior to one of our campsites for the night.
Day 0: Orientation
After exploring Houghton, MI, we made the short, tree-lined trek to quaint Copper Harbor. Prior to the trip, we were required to participate in an orientation. Upon our arrival, we were introduced to Bonesy, our guide for the trip. He asked us to place our belongings for the trip on a wooden table. Then, he handed us three dry bags. Our first task: fit all our desired belongings into the bags. After what felt like an hour, and most likely was given how many things we thought we wanted to take, we were ready to go.
Bonesy instructed us to suit up in our wetsuits, and zip ourselves into our spray skirts. We learned skills like the J-lean and hip snap, along with paddling strokes that would help us navigate the waters of Lake Superior. He demonstrated a self-rescue flawlessly and I was in awe. More awe struck me when he told us we were up next to practice.
I absolutely love the cold and all things winter, but nothing prepares you for such frigid waters. Except this Water Safety Course. The chill tingled down to my toes as I leaned to my right to submerge myself to complete the lesson. He made sure we didn’t forget any crucial steps and despite this being the part I was most nervous about, I am beyond grateful that this was part of the trip. A sense of reassurance poured over us after successfully completing a self-rescue; knowing now that if it did happen in any event, we had skills to tap into to ensure we would be okay.
Day 1: Copper Harbor to Rock Harbor
We arrived to the ferry, a 3-hour ride, from Copper Harbor to Rock Harbor. Our park and ferry fees were included in our tour cost and taken care of so we simply had to walk aboard when it was time. As much as I enjoy being on the water, ferry rides are the only ones I have gotten sick on, so I made use of the motion sickness pills I packed.
The 56-mile ride on the Isle Royale Queen IV flies by as you gaze out the window. Being on the world’s largest freshwater lake felt surreal. When we docked, Park Rangers split up visitors into smaller groups and gave a ten-minute safety talk, including fun call-and-responses to ensure we would remember the tips she was providing visitors with. The most important one? Emergency services are extremely difficult to come by due to the remoteness, so to be careful even with what is considered easy, like hiking.
Entering Isle Royale National Park
After the talk, we were off to snag a campsite nearby. Once we secured our spot, we explored while Bonesy prepared dinner. I don’t usually do guided trips, but this part alone was worth it. To be able to go with the flow and not worry about logistics, or the need to prepare a meal, truly felt like a vacation. My friend and I watched the sun set at 9:30pm. As we returned to our campsite, the smell of stir fry filled the air and soon after both our stomachs and our hearts were full.
Day 2: Rock Harbor to West Caribou Island (Base Camp)
Bonesy took us on a short hike while we were still in Rock Harbor. I was eager to start kayaking to truly start the trip, but he said an early morning hike to Scoville Point made the most sense before starting our adventure on water. And he couldn’t have been more right.
Not even ten minutes into our walk to the trailhead, we turned a corner and were thirty yards away from a moose.
If this was any indication of how the rest of the trip would go, I was in for possibly the best trip of my life. It took years hiking in New Hampshire’s White Mountains to encounter a moose once. Apparently, all I had to do was go for a hike on a remote island off the coast of mainland Michigan to make this dream come true.
We embarked on the Stoll Trail for 4.6 miles (roundtrip) to Scoville Point. A very moderate hike with stunning views of Lake Superior for most of our trek. Bonesy pointed out an eagle’s nest along the trail that I would have missed otherwise. In less than a mile, I had two incredible wildlife views, and we hadn’t started kayaking yet!
Afterwards, we loaded up our kayaks alongside Rock Harbor’s dock. Soon enough we were off to base camp. Two hours and about six miles of paddling took us to West Caribou Island.
While we explored our new home for the next two nights, our dinner was quite the feast when we returned. Despite being in the backcountry, my food tasted gourmet. A major upgrade from last year’s thru-hike meals I prepared myself.
Unreal Meals in the Backcountry
A major perk of this guided trip is that not only are meals delicious and prepared for us, but our tent, camp equipment, water purification, and even bug spray were included in the trip. My friend and I could truly just enjoy ourselves and the wonder of Isle Royale, without having to run through a to-do task list in our minds multiple times day, like other camping trips we’d gone on.
Day 3: Rock Harbor Lighthouse to Daisy Farm
West Caribou Island was a great jumping off point for day adventures. The island has very limited spots for camping as it is only accessible by watercraft. We had a lean-to to ourselves and could offload some gear to go exploring for the day.
Our first stop: Rock Harbor Lighthouse.
I have always had a fascination with lighthouses and couldn’t pass up the chance to paddle up to one, dock there, and head inside.
Afterwards, we ventured off to Daisy Farm – Isle Royale’s largest campground that doubles as the trailhead for Mt. Ojibway, the highest point on the island. The sunshine finally greeted us on this hike after a couple chilly days. Isle Royale’s weather is as everchanging as New England’s – rain jackets and pants one day, a t-shirt and shorts the next.
This hike reminded me of hiking in Acadia – where the land meets the ocean. In Isle Royale’s instance, the land meets the lake. The hike, part of the Greenstone Ridge, is a little over 5 miles and about 1,000 ft of elevation gain. I love a lookout tower view and Mt. Ojibway delivered! Mt. Ojibway’s summit, at 1,150 feet, was the only spot I had phone signal for the entirety of the trip. We ended our evening enjoying a nice campfire back on West Caribou Island and slowly the stars outshined the fire’s flames as the night went on.
Day 4: West Caribou Island (Base Camp) to Merritt Lane
Bonesy knew we were an adventurous pair and at this point had earned our paddling arms (the equivalent of sea legs on a ship to me), so he set his sights on Merritt Lane for our last night. We loaded up the kayaks to backpedal to Rock Harbor, but first made a lunch stop at Three Mile. This would be our longest day in the kayaks, so Bonesy did a great job of breaking it up for us to also see more in the meantime. After Three Mile, we kayaked a little over 2.5 miles to Rock Harbor, giving us the chance to move our legs and buy a couple refreshments from the park store before departing for the last stretch.
Rock Harbor to Merritt Lane
This portion of the trip was roughly four miles, and as we approached Merritt Lane, I couldn’t believe how lucky we were. There was a small opening among the trees just for this site. It felt like we stumbled upon the perfect one. The mosquitoes swiftly brought me back to reality as they were hungrier than I was for dinner. They made sure they ate well. We layered up and ate our final feast, overlooking the water that just days ago felt so foreign and cold, and now felt familial and warm. I truly didn’t want to leave.
Day 5: Merritt Lane to Rock Harbor
Our final paddle was our slowest four and a half miles because I kept resting my paddle on my legs to soak in the moments. In a couple hours, I’d be back on the ferry heading home, and I wasn’t ready to leave. Each paddle stroke was one step closer to leaving a place that I felt so at home in, in only a matter of days.
We splurged on a timed shower token (mostly to not take away from others’ experience on the ferry ride back since we hadn’t showered in days), bought a few postcards, and disposed of the trash we accumulated over our time in the park at the Rock Harbor Camp Store. We settled onto our ferry seats, and after docking in Copper Harbor, I was ready to do it all over again.
Check out our route (including our two hikes) below. The first image is zoomed out to show just how much more there is to explore on Isle Royale, and the second image is zoomed in to show the route we took on our five day kayak camping trip.
Tips:
Bring layers!
I didn’t think we’d face such chilly weather, followed by mosquito-biting summer sunshine, but I’m glad I packed for it.
Pack your camera. You won’t want to miss the wonderful wildlife.
Book your adventure with Keweenaw Adventure Company. It truly made this trip special and stress-free. Give the owner, Raymond, a call at 906-289-4303 or send him an email at info@keweenawadventure.com.
Add these other national parks to your bucket list:
Four Reasons to Visit Nevada’s Greatest Gem (No, Not Vegas)
And that’s how I landed on visiting my 44th national park. What I did not plan for is loving northern Nevada as much as I did. Here are four big reasons why this small town…
Summit of Wheeler Peak, the highest mountain in Nevada’s Great Basin National Park, June 25, 2024.
When one of my close friends decided to get married in beautiful Breckenridge, I immediately knew I’d extend my trip. Flying to that part of the U.S. isn’t as easy as driving to the mountains in the Northeast, so I wanted to take full advantage of my time out west. After last summer’s excursion to Isle Royale National Park off the coast of Michigan and Virgin Islands National Park a few months prior, the more remote a park is, the more I seem to enjoy it.
I mapped out the closest new-to-me park from Denver and there was only one national park that was remotely in driving distance. To be fair, driving distance is relative, but to me, a ten-hour drive, partly along America’s loneliest highway, sounded like the perfect plan.
And that’s how I landed on visiting my 44th national park: Great Basin National Park in Baker, Nevada. What I did not plan for is loving northern Nevada as much as I did. Here are four big reasons this small town made its way to the top of my favorites list:
Stella Lake from the Stella Lake trail heading to Wheeler Peak.
Wow, does this park genuinely have it all! From the world’s oldest living organisms to the state’s (technically) highest peak and only glacier, Great Basin National Park should be on everyone’s list of places to explore.
Hike Wheeler Peak
Y’all know I love a good hike, and after hiking a couple 14ers in Colorado, I was ready to take on Nevada’s second highest peak. Nevada’s highest peak, Boundary Peak, is only about 70 feet higher and partially in another state, but one minute at Wheeler Peak’s summit will make you feel like you’re on top of the world.
At 13, 063 feet, this peak towers over Great Basin National Park. A little over 8 miles and 3,000 feet of climbing, this trail was very easy to follow. I brought microspikes and trekking poles, but did not need to use them.
Explore the Oldest Bristlecone Pines in the World
Bristlecone Pine Glacier Trail
Great Basin bristlecones are over 5,000 years old. There’s a short trail from the Wheeler Peak campground that takes you through an informational path of the bristlecone pines. Definitely worth a detour if you’re already at the campground.
Dip Your Toes in an Alpine Lake
There are a handful of alpine lakes in Great Basin National Park. The most popular ones are found along the Alpine Lakes Loop leaving from the Wheeler Peak campground. I took the Stella Lake trail up Wheeler Peak, so I had the joy of staring at Stella Lake for awhile as I made my way to the summit. Once atop Wheeler Peak, I had a birds-eye-view of three alpine lakes. Three! I felt great getting off the mountain, so I added in the Alpine Lakes Loop and my feet were glad I did. Stella Lake is the largest of the three, but my favorite was Teresa Lake. Turquoise blue waters, a view of Wheeler Peak, I couldn’t ask for a better ending to the day’s hike. I woke up early the next morning for another dip and had the lake all to myself for a couple hours.
Gaze at Nevada’s Only Glacier (while it’s still there!)
If you’re on the Bristlecone Pines Trail, you can continue hiking for a little under a mile to see Nevada’s last remaining glacier. I know this park is remote, but I am truly shocked it’s one of the least visited. There is so much history packed into this park that everyone can find something to take away from a trip here.
Tips: Great Basin National Park is at a higher altitude than most visitors live at. Remember to hydrate, pack ibuprofen, and take it easy as you adjust. If you’re sensitive to the sun, higher altitudes bring you closer to the sun, so pack the sunscreen!
Best time of year to visit: There’s something to see in every season, but if you’re outdoorsy, winter conditions close the main (and only) road, Wheeler Peak Scenic Road, into Great Basin National Park. I visited in mid-June when snow had mostly melted. It’s not uncommon for snow to be present until the end of June depending on how heavy winter was that year.
Cost: Great Basin National Park is currently free of charge to explore.
Where to stay: The park offers campgrounds, but I highly recommend Stargazer Inn.
2. Stargazer Inn and Bristlecone General Store
Baker is a small town with a big heart, largely thanks to the owners of the Stargazer Inn. As I’m getting older, I find I gravitate toward a small town feel (if that was not evident by my desire to find the most remote parks and explore them). I have visited plenty of America’s biggest cities, and nothing attracts me more than a small town where locals are welcoming, the food is delicious, and the views are endless.
This trip I chose not to camp to minimize my packing list, so I was looking into stays around each of my destinations. I came across Stargazer Inn, a quaint inn right in the heart of Baker, Nevada mere minutes from Great Basin National Park. I gave Liz a call and sure enough she had a room for me to stay. What she also had, was a connection to Western Mass since she and her husband actually lived here for several years. This little pocket of Nevada is over 2,500 miles from me and yet it still felt like home— thanks to Liz.
Liz and James are the owners of Stargazer Inn and they also host monthly events that cultivate a community in Baker with meet-ups for book clubs, full moon hikes, and more!
I love camping, but my room at the Stargazer Inn put my mind at ease as a solo female traveler, kept my packing list minimal thanks to so many amenities (laundry room, small kitchenette with a fridge, microwave, and coffee!), and saved on travel time to the park. The Stargazer Inn has 10 rooms to stay in, and also offers RV and van hook-up sites.
Address: 115 S. Baker Ave. Baker, NV 89311
Contact: Email Liz at stay@stargazernevada.com or give her a call at 775-234-7323.
Tips: The Stargazer Inn also features a general store, the Bristlecone General Store for any supplies you might run low or run out of. Or maybe if you underestimate the Sierras sunshine like I did, there’s plenty of aloe vera to purchase there.
3. Female-Owned Food Businesses
With most of my trips incorporating long hikes, part of my trip always includes finding food gems. And in a town with only one street and a population that’s smaller than my 7th grade first period class, I was hesitant about where I’d find a post-hike meal. I stocked up on food prior to arriving, but was surprised by the two finds I came across:
Sugar, Salt, and Malt Restaurant (70 Baker Ave. Baker, NV 89311)
After my hike up Wheeler Peak, I was ready to eat. I walked into Sugar, Salt, and Malt and when I saw the white sauce pizza on the menu, I was sold.
This pizza included chicken Italian sausage, roasted garlic, ricotta cheese atop artichoke heart and spinach cream sauce with a balsamic reduction. In what feels like the middle of nowhere Nevada, this was quite the sight. It gets better. One of the owners is a trained pastry chef and creates homemade ice cream cookie sandwiches. Naturally I had to try it. There’s the classic chocolate chip cookie with vanilla ice cream, and then there’s the chocolate cookie with strawberry ice cream. This spot was so nice I had to visit twice!
Sandra’s Mexican Food Truck (45 Pioche St. Baker, NV 89311)
My last day in Baker, I contemplated a third visit to Sugar, Salt, and Malt, but they are closed on Wednesdays. In such a small town, there are not a plethora of options, but the ones that are there are delicious. I made my way to try Sandra’s Mexican Food, and yet again, my heart and stomach were full. Sandra cooks delicious burritos, tacos, tacos – you name it. She operates out of a food truck and has churros. Need I say more?
Sandra’s portions are very hearty, I wish I spent more time in Baker to eat there again.
Tips: Check hours prior to planning a visit. For example, Sugar, Salt, and Malt are closed Wednesdays and Thursdays. Additionally, be mindful that with Baker being a very remote town, ingredients and shipments are not as easily accessible, or affordable. Prices at both establishments above are very reasonably priced given the quality of the food and the distance supplies need to travel.
4. The Charming Creativity of Baker, Nevada
Driving through Baker (the whole two-minute drive on its only street) immediately reminded me of my drive through Marfa, Texas. Marfa, before its widespread fame as a minimalist art stop, felt like a middle-of-nowhere art museum. From a tiny Target store to a Prada store (with merchandise inside), Marfa’s exhibits were a stop on my road trip out to Big Bend National Park back in 2016.
While it feels like the middle of nowhere northern Nevada, Baker embraces that. Baker is “where all roads lead” and I loved seeing that on a colorful sign. Another quirky spot is across from Sandra’s Mexican Food. A rundown wooden shack that genuinely looks like it has been around since pioneering days would not catch the attention of most people, but with the Sierra Nevada mountain range as a backdrop, I gave it another glance. There’s a small white plaque on the structure that made me laugh:
Museum of the Future
Coming Soon
Marfa’s increasing tourism has made its way onto many people’s West Texas bucket lists, but Baker feels like how Marfa felt years ago — charming and quirky and undiscovered.
Have you heard of Great Basin National Park? Would you add northern Nevada to your bucket list?