Taking on the Tongue Range: Lake George’s Best-Kept Backpacking Gem
In the midst of the Adirondacks’ best season, we took on the Tongue Range to summit 6 of the LG12. Here's how we hiked them all in one overnight trip...
As a lover of lists, I found myself without a hiking one for the first time in what felt like forever. I chased summit after summit across the Northeast for years, but after completing my hardest challenge yet (the Northeast Ultra 8) this past July, I hadn’t thought of what was next.
I knew I wanted a new goal, but a doable one with my dog Poppy. My friend Liz suggested the Lake George 12ster. My only true experiences in Lake George were of Stewart’s stops en route to the Adirondacks, so I hadn’t really stepped onto the trails there. But as with every area I decide to explore, I’m constantly impressed by what I find when I don’t have many expectations. After two incredible camping trips in Lake George in August, Poppy and I were halfway through the list.
As luck would have it, Liz and her friend planned to wrap up the Lake George 12ster with a fun-filled finale – backpacking the Tongue Range. I instantly asked if we could join in on the adventure. Turns out, I had the Tongue Range saved on my list of future hikes for the last few years after seeing a few beautiful shots on trail—never really realizing it was part of a challenge at all. I kept pursuing other longer days and pushing this one further down the list. It’s a beautiful moment when things come together because now I found myself with this hike at the top of my list that I get to hike with the friend who urged me to go for those mountains.
In the midst of the Adirondacks’ best season, four of us (and Poppy) met at Deer Leap to take on the Tongue Range. Here’s how it went:
SATURDAY
9 AM- We left one car at the Clay Meadow Trailhead (Lake Shore Dr, Bolton Landing, NY 12814) and another at Deer Leap (Silver Bay, Deer Leap Trail, Silver Bay, NY 12874). We embarked on Deer Leap with heavy packs and full hearts as we were thrilled to be outside during foliage season. It’s tougher as we’re getting older to plan a weekend away that aligns with everyone’s schedule and the weather conditions. We were in for a treat it felt like.
That treat melted a couple miles later as we warmed up. Packs felt heavier. Fall felt like summer. It’s been an unseasonably warm start to autumn, but with no rain in the forecast, our spirits remained high.
Making our way along the trail, we summitted Brown (1966’), Huckleberry (2232’), Five Mile (2256’), and finally, Fifth Peak (1813’). Four mountains on the Lake George 12ster list. The only memorable peak of this part of the range was the finale – Fifth Peak. Our home for the evening after six miles and 2,000 feet of elevation gain.
It was around 1 P.M. when we settled into the Fifth Peak lean-to. We unloaded our big packs and took out what we needed to our smaller day packs.
1:30 PM- We headed out for the afternoon portion on the itinerary – featuring more hiking, more sweating, and more eating. Essentially what backpacking is. This leg of the trip would be much lighter gear-wise. We planned an out-and-back to French Point (1756’) and First Peak (1586’), the final two Lake George 12ster peaks in the Tongue Range. This was arguably the toughest part of the day, but it came with the best views. The out-and-back was a total of 7.3 miles with 2,800 feet of elevation gain. We took breaks at the summits to take in the view, rest our legs, and eat snacks before heading back to camp.
At this point, none of us were excited about the back portion of the out-and-back. We descended and ascended a lot, and knew very well what that would mean. Thus, we weren’t looking forward to it. Especially knowing we’d make it back to camp after dark.
But as all hiking goes, we put one foot in front of the other. We were all chatting and before we knew it, we found ourselves on a bit of exposed rock in a small clearing, with about a mile to go. We looked up and realized we stumbled upon an open view of the sunset. I gave up on my hope to see the sunset from a visible spot earlier in the afternoon based on where we were and the time of day. The day had been an adventure already, so I told myself, onwards and upwards. When we reached a spot where we had a wide opening to watch the sunset, I couldn’t believe it. It made the moment all the more memorable.
It started out tame. Just a subtle, faded pink. Then the sunset came alive with a blazing fire of deep purples and oranges encompassing the entire sky above the stacked layers of deep blue mountains in the distance. We spent some time soaking it in. I ate my first Nerds cluster. What a time.
After the sun set behind the mountains, we took out headlamps and hiked back to our lean-to.
7:30 PM - It was my first time sleeping in a lean-to! The Fifth Peak lean-to felt new because of how well-maintained (or untraveled) it was. We packed a tent, in case the lean-to was occupied, but thankfully we didn’t need to use it. As a result, no tent breakdown in the morning. We called it a night after preparing some delicious dinner, Peak Refuel’s White Chicken Chili for me (with a single serving of Cholula’s of course) and Oreos for a little sweet treat.
SUNDAY
6 AM- We woke up to sip hot coffee and watch the sunrise. This was my first time trying out Alpine Start’s instant coffee and it was perfect!
Our bodies ached, but our hearts were full, knowing what we accomplished yesterday. The lean-to is eastward facing, so the sunrise was seen through the trees. Fifth Peak’s summit slowly began to wake up with the sun. There’s a small viewpoint down from the Fifth Peak lean-to of a sliver of Lake George encompassed by fog that was a lovely sight to see.
The slow pack-up process began. It was slow going because we did not want the trip to end, and because we should have stretched before bed. Packing was so much easier this time around than it was when I first backpacked on the Northville-Placid Trail. We drank all our water by this point and ate all our food (aside from small snacks). Our packs were instantly loads lighter.
Poppy rocked her own pack on the trail. This was her first backpacking trip!
7:45 AM- We hiked down the .2 miles along the Fifth Peak Lean-to Trail to the fork, continued another .5 along the Tongue Mountain Range Trail, and finished with two miles on the Five Mile Point Trail to our car parked at Clay Meadows. A total of 2.7 miles and only 175 feet of elevation gain. We dropped nearly 1,500 feet though.
9:30 AM – After a drop-off at our other car spot, we were off to a nearby diner for a well-earned breakfast before all heading home.
Notes:
Rattlesnakes and bees - The Tongue Range is known for its rattlesnake habitat. Given the time of year, we weren’t worried about this, but it is something to keep in mind dependent on the season. Additionally, bees and wasps were abundant.
Rough terrain - The Tongue Range can be made into a loop. I did not hike the loop. Part of the Tongue Range, if you’re completing the loop, was wrecked by storms two years ago, and there has been a wonderful amount of trail maintenance to improve the trails on that section since. However, some hiker reviews still mention the damage. The out-and-back we did was in an effort to be able to drop packs off at the lean-to, and to avoid the rougher part of the Tongue Range.
Is the Lake George 12ster on your list? Would you tackle the Tongue Range in a day, or take it all in with an extra day?
If you’re also a list lover, check out these hiking challenges in the Northeast:
Tupper Lake Triad Ultra: The Best Beginner Hiking Challenge for Dogs
I decided I wanted to complete Tupper Lake Triad in a day with my dog— three hikes totaling 7.4 miles and 1,975 feet of climbing. Here’s everything you need to know for a Tupper Lake Triad Ultra:
Lake views from the fire tower atop Mt. Arab on an October morning.
After finishing the Northeast 115, I wasn’t drawn to any particular hiking challenge. Once leaves began to change, so did my feelings toward a new goal. I set my sights on a trio of trails that I could do with my favorite hiking partner, Poppy. Poppy spent the summer hitting the trails with me and seemed ready for a bigger day.
Despite her love for the trails, she hasn’t hiked any 4,000-footers. Yet. She earned her trail legs last month in October when we headed up to Tupper Lake in New York to take on the Tupper Lake Triad—a list of three summits in the scenic town of Tupper Lake comprised of: Mt. Arab, Goodman Mountain, and Coney Mountain. A trip to Tupper Lake could include one of these alone and it would be a wonderful time spent outside. However, I wanted to tackle all three in a day to complete the Tupper Lake Triad Ultra – something Poppy and I could do together. In a day, these three hikes total 7.4 miles and 1,975 feet of climbing. If you subtract the short drives in-between, it almost feels like a 4,000 footer. Great practice for my trail buddy!
Everything you need to know for a Tupper Lake Triad Ultra:
1. Mt. Arab (2,525 feet)
Location: Mt Arab Rd, Tupper Lake, NY 12986 (Mt. Arab Trailhead & Parking)
Distance and elevation: 2.1 miles out-and-back, 768 ft gain
Parking: Plenty of parking with multiple spots opening up both when we arrived and when we left at the Mount Arab Trailhead Parking.
Trail: Take the Mount Arab trail up to the summit, and back down.
Mt. Arab was my favorite of the three mountains mostly because I’m a sucker for a fire tower. I love seeing expansive views, and it’s almost a guarantee when it comes to an Adirondack fire tower (weather permitting, of course).
2. Goodman Mountain (2,190 feet)
Location: Adirondack Park Preserve, Tupper Lake, NY 12986 (Goodman Mountain Trailhead)
Distance and elevation: 3.1 miles out-and-back, 607 ft gain
Parking: Plenty of parking at the Goodman Mountain Trailhead, and with the hike being so short, multiple spots opened up in the time we arrived and departed.
Trail: Take the Goodman Mountain trail up to the summit, and back down.
Excellent views from the summit of Goodman Mountain.
3. Coney Mountain (2,264 feet)
Location: NY-30, Tupper Lake, NY 12986 (Coney Mountain Trailhead)
Distance and elevation: 2.2 miles out-and-back, 600 ft gain
Parking: There are only one or two spots at the Coney Mountain parking area. Parking is available on the very busy road, but the spots are endless.
Trail: Take the Coney Mountain trail up to the summit, and back down.
Receiving your Completion Patch
Once you complete all three (in a day or over multiple days), submit your registration to the Regional Office of Sustainable Tourism with $5 for a patch for you and your pup. The Tupper Lake Triad challenge offers online registration. My patch arrived in my mailbox within a week!
Preparing Your Pup
I trained Poppy on local trails prior to tackling the high elevation gain of all three hikes in one day. A big advantage of the Tupper Lake Triad is that although the elevation gain mirrors an Adirondack 46er, the trails are very well-maintained and accessible. Driving from trailhead to trailhead gave her a chance to recover before the next hike.
Affordable Lodging Near Tupper Lake, NY
Since Tupper Lake is roughly a four-hour drive away from home, I opted to camp at a nearby state campground—Fish Creek Pond. This campground has plenty of sites, bathrooms, and views.
I wanted to test out an air mattress in the back of my SUV, so we car camped at Fish Creek. Definitely worth it!
Where to Eat in Tupper Lake, NY
In this area of the Adirondacks, I always gravitate to Raquette River Brewing. They truly have it all: a plethora of food trucks, beers, and parking spots.
Is the Tupper Lake Triad (ultra or not) making it onto your hiking list? If you enjoyed learning about this hiking challenge then you’ll love exploring these:
Hike the Vermont 5 4,000 Footers
Lake Placid 9er Hiking Challenge
Twins Zealand Bonds Traverse (part of the NH 48 Challenge)
Tips for Winter Hiking With Your Pup
Once I got a dog, I knew with the right measures, she’d be able to enjoy the outdoors too. Here is what works for us when we hit the trail:
The first thing people tell you when you move to New England is that winter is brutal. Obviously I didn’t grow up here, so I didn’t have the experience of shoveling for hours in the morning or having to walk to school in freezing temperatures. That might be why winter is such a beauty to me.
As someone who grew up without a single snowflake (except that one time Dallas turned into a winter wonderland), the winter season is a novelty to me each year. I keep wondering when I’ll turn bitter toward the season, but it hasn’t happened yet. Here’s why I think it hasn’t: I discovered winter activities.
Hiking is one of my favorite things to do, so I had to try it out in winter. Once I got a dog, I knew with the right measures, she’d be able to enjoy the outdoors too. Here is what works for us when we hit the trail:
Tip 1: Know your dog’s capabilities.
You know your pet best and know what they can handle. I never underestimate a dog’s ability given that most love being in the wild (and I’ve seen a Dachshund hike the same mountains my Aussie does), but obviously there are limits based on breed and size.
From a young age, my pup was conditioned to the trails. At three and four months she was trained on short, local hikes with little to no elevation gain. Slowly, she worked her way up. She can crush any mountain and elevation gain. It didn’t come as a surprise when she started to take on 4,000 footers in New Hampshire and New York. But we definitely didn’t venture off on one before we knew she was ready.
If you don’t have the White Mountains in your backyard, there are still ways for you to mimic an intense hike without the massive peaks. Here’s how:
Find a long trail, ideally with decent elevation gain. You can add difficulty in three ways: (1) do the trail twice (or more), (2) add a backpack to your dog’s back with water bottles inside, and (3) hike in various weather conditions or seasons.
Tip 2: Pick an appropriate hike.
Whether you’re starting off hiking with your dog, or you and your dog are more seasoned out there, the hike you pick is the most important decision you’ll make that day. If you aren’t capable of carrying your dog, or know that with their fur (or lack there of), they’ll be cold, pick a shorter hike where you can stay in control.
Of course you can never be too prepared for the mountains, but you can always aim to expect the unexpected.
Tip 3: Pack these necessities.
Even though dogs are wild animals and thrive out on the trail smelling all the smells, there are still steps to take to ensure your pup’s well-being is taken care of. I pack the following items for my dog and consider them necessities:
Dog first aid kit
You never know what your pup may step on or get into, so it’s best to have a first aid kit handy in case of emergencies, which are more common in the winter.
Backpack for her to carry
I have this backpack for Koah and it’s adjustable to her body. She’s had it from a young age and we conditioned her with an empty backpack, then slowly added weight evenly for her. It’s very easy to put on her and has a piece to attach a leash!
This comes particularly in handy for long, winter hikes when energy is expended and dogs need water and food. The perk of winter hiking is that there is usually a plethora of snow for dogs to eat to keep their bodies hydrated.
Collapsible food and water bowls
These foldable bowls are an absolute must. They are easy to wash and very lightweight. Tip: If your pup is picky, try to help the adjustment to these bowls by using them at home too. They are also great for travel!
Two towels
I don’t know about your dog, but it feels like mine actively seeks every opportunity on a hike to bring back as much dirt and mud as possible into my newly vacuumed car. If that sounds familiar, bring one towel for the post-hike mess. I love that my dog enjoys herself on a hike, but I try to clean
Dog food and treats
My dog rarely eats during a hike, so even though I pack food for her, she usually opts out. I bring treats to maintain training on the trail and provide her fuel in a more efficient way since she doesn’t eat on a hike otherwise.
Waste bags
Part of leaving no trace in the woods is picking up your pup’s waste. Always keep an extra bag or two on you (or in your pup’s pack).
Leash
As much as I love letting Koah run free in the woods, most trails require dogs to be leashed. Keep this in mind when passing other hikers on the trail.
Personalized collar
Like I said before, expect the unexpected. You never know if your dog may get lost, or get loose from your leash. I purchased this collar and personalized it with my dog’s name and my phone number in case she ever gets away from me. Again, it has never happened to me, but it’s best to plan ahead.
Are you ready to take on the trails with your pup this winter? If you don’t have a furry friend, but still want to tackle the mountains in winter, explore my recommendations for gear below!
Hiking Cascade and Porter Mountains in the Adirondacks
Winter in the mountains is surreal. Growing up in Texas meant only seeing snow once or twice, and it was mostly ice. I am absolutely enamored by the winterscape in the northeast. From snow-capped peaks to the crunch of spikes in snow on the trail, to the summit sunsets that are more frequent with shorter daylight times. Selfishly I also enjoy having trails to ourselves and not heavy crowds.
This past week, we ventured up to the Adirondacks, a magical gem in New York that feels like New York’s best kept secret. It’s a long drive for many, and it’s not a national park, so it’s not extremely well-known. However, for hikers in New England, it’s a popular destination. Like the New Hampshire 48, there’s a list of 46 high peaks in the Adirondacks that results in accomplishment (and a patch, of course) if completed.
I’ve hiked a couple, but never in winter. Winter in the Adirondacks feels otherworldly to me because of my few trips up there. My first trip up was five years ago. One of my best friends who lived in Hawaii at the time sent me a picture of the Adirondacks and told me I should go. I made a day trip that weekend, which became the first of an annual fall foliage trip.
This trip, however, would be the first attempt of a winter trek in these vast mountains. We set our hearts on two of the 46: Cascade and Porter. After arriving in the early afternoon to a nearly empty parking lot, we set out on the 2.4 mile ascent to Cascade along the Cascade Mountain trail. The trail was packed down and clearly labeled. Right before the summit of Cascade, at about 2 miles, there is a y on the trail. One direction leading up to Cascade (head toward “privy”), and the other about .6 miles to Porter. We headed up Cascade first.
One of my favorite parts of winter hiking is the lowered probability of getting lost because you only have two options: follow the trail another hiker sweetly packed down for you, or dive into feet of untouched snow. Seems obvious.
The wind was brutal at the summit, so we descended almost as quickly as we made it above treeline. Beautiful bluebird days can be deceiving weather-wise since we were met with 20 mph winds producing a negative windchill experience atop Cascade.
Afterwards, Porter was a fast and beautiful jaunt with views of Cascade. I love ridgelines because you get to see how far your hike has taken you.
Cascade Mountain trail to the summit of Cascade Mountain (view from Porter Mountain).
We headed down Porter the way we came up and the rest of the hike was a swift and smooth descent. It was also our dog Koah’s first two of the 46! After this trip, I’m already starting to plan the next. The 46 just might be the next hiking challenge we take on.
Should the ADK 46 be our next list to take on? Have you hiked any of the 46 high peaks?